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    Last Concert Cafe


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    Twelve feet from an exit ramp off Interstate 10, in the urban hodgepodge of Texas' largest city, rests a hardy survivor of the havoc a major highway project can inflict upon a neighborhood.

    The Last Concert Cafe, spared from the wrecking ball when I-10 blew through Houston in the late 1960's,may be the most anonymous-looking Mexican restaurant in Texas, if not the United States. The nondescript red-and-white building has a small courtyard, no sign and a red front door that remains locked.

    To gain entrance, patrons must knock - not once, but twice - for owner Dawn Fudge or one of the regulars to let them in.

    Once inside, however, you begin to understand why, after 40 years, the Last Concert remains Houston's most eclectic eating spot. The decor is watermelon red and green, the booths and chairs are spare and rickety, and the tables on the patio are adorned with plastic tablecloths and spray cans of insect repellent.

    Banana trees flourish, and stray cats wander about, hoping for a random fajita morsel. The clientele is just as bric-a-brac, with artists from the surrounding warehouse district, students, construction workers and the well-to-do all numbered among the faithful. The Texas rock band ZZ Top has been known to dine and drink here.


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